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| Author | Apple IIGS screen size (Read 82353 times) | ||||||
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lauland
512 MB  Posts: 674 Symtes 7 Mewconer! 
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Reply #15 on: July 11, 2025, 23:58
I've got a couple Classic and/or Classic II's...been meaning to look at their analog boards, I've heard soldier joints can go bad, and that'd be a quick fix, but it more likely caps. Don't remember how many of which I have, but the analog boards/monitors/cases are "roughly" interchangeable. May take them out and give them another look this weekend. The Classic II treated me well while it lasted: One of the last things it did for me Arashi! You're supposed to use fancy tools for those things, but a simple screwdriver of suitable size will work fine. As @wove said, super caution is advised if you get anywhere near exposed monitor guts. That sounds scary, but it just means don't be a goofball, don't touch anything you don't know what it is, even if you think you might know what it is, etc. Treat it like a very grumpy sleeping alligator and you'll be fine. Huh. Ok...you might find this amusing...I was googling what it might look like inside your monitor and JUST learned there's a little door on the classics to get to the adjustments without taking it apart. I doubt your monitor has one, but might as well look! Also just look for little unlabeled dark holes like in that picture that might be where you could put a screwdriver in to get to the adjusters? As you can see on the Classics you can adjust just about everything with the monitor. |
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Last Edit: July 12, 2025, 00:01 by lauland
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wove
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1024 MB Posts: 1363
Reply #16 on: July 12, 2025, 01:09
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The tool is a fiberglass hex tool similar to an "Allen wrench". Not sure about world wide, but in the US the tool is 5/32". What works is to take a flat style tooth pick and break off the tip until it fits in the hex hole. An Allen wrench works, but the metal interferes with the impedance of the coil meaning you can not see what your adjustments are really doing until after you remove the tool. Also of course the tool being fiberglass does not conduct electricity so you can not short any thing out while poking around. A tooth pick is also not conductive so adjustments can be made while the tool is inserted. One the knobs you remove when taking off the back might work for the width coil since the vertical adjustment is also just a ferrite coil. A ferrite coil is just copper wire wrapped around a tube, old ones were varnished pasteboard, newer ones are plastic. The inside of the tube is threaded with a small threaded iron slug inside that tracks up and down the tube on the threads. The coil has a variable impedance depending on the position of the ferrite slug. The variable impedance coil in conjunction with a fixed capacitor determines the frequency of that circuit which determines the sweep of the main coils on the picture tube. The height adjustment determines the distance between the scan lines, while the horizontal adjustments determines the spacing between the shots that light up the individual sixes.
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